Auto Service

1. Break the lug nuts loose on the Audi by turning them 1/4 turn on all of the wheels.
2. Raise the Audi onto jack stands. To do this, engage the emergency brake and jack up the front of the vehicle with the floor jack and make sure that you are jacking up on the front jack point located near the radiator (it is an extension of the frame of the Audi). Place the jack stands underneath the front pinch welds on the side of the Audi, and lower the vehicle onto the jack stands. Repeat this process for the rear of the vehicle, using the rear jack point located near the trunk as well as the rear pinch welds.
3. Continue removing the lug nuts and remove the wheel.
4. Unbolt the caliper mounting bolts and pull the caliper off the brake rotor.
5. Secure the brake rotor to the coil springs above the brake assembly with zip ties.
6. Remove the brake pads. You may need to tap them out of place with a rubber mallet.
7. Place the face of one of the brake pads over the caliper piston. Then, place the c-clamp over the caliper assembly and force the brake pad against the caliper piston. This will in turn push the caliper piston back into the caliper, making room for the new (thicker) brake pads.
8. Insert the new brake pads into the caliper and reassemble the caliper and brake assembly. Installation of pads is the reverse of removal.
9. Mount the wheels back over the hub assembly and tighten the lug nuts. Then, lower the Audi and torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-lbs using the torque wrench.

1.
Audi recommends using 75w 90 gear oil. You will need about 1.5 Liters. I bought 2 bottles of mobil gear oil at autozone for $9 each. Buy amsoil if you prefer that brand. I dont think it matters but you want to be on the safe side as these cars are highly specific to their needs.
2.
Jack up the car lifting all 4 wheels off the floor at a even level. This is required to accurately fill the fluid.
3.
Now lets locate the rear differential drain plug(circle) and the fill plug (arrow, blocked not visible)
4. Open the Fill plug first! You do not want to drain the gear oil and not be able to fill it back up.
5.
You will need a 10mm allen wrench for both plugs.
6.
Once you have the fill plug opened. Its safe to open the drain plug.
7.
Once its finished draining. Put the drain plug back in. And lets prepare to fill her up with new differential fluid. I used my pressure pump to push the fluid in. You can use any pump such as one from a shampoo bottle and attach a hose that will lead into the fill plug
8.
A shot of hose going into the fill plug. It is done filling up once oil begins flowing out.

1. Park the car on level ground and turn off the engine. Turn the key forward one click, starting the electrical systems but not the engine. Open the hood.
2. Locate the 20-pin diagnostic connector on the drivers side of the engine near the intake manifold. The diagnostic connector has a bright red cap. Turn the diagnostic-connector cap counterclockwise until it comes free.
3. Align the recesses in the oil-reset tool with the diagnostic connector pins. Plug it in by pushing straight down.
4. Activate the reset function on the tool by pressing the start button.
5. Check the oil-change reminder light on the dash to confirm the reminder has been reset.

1. Park the car on a flat, level surface. Set the parking brake.
2. Locate the oil pan underneath the car. The oil pan is located at the bottom of the engine. Slide a drain pan underneath the engine to catch the used oil.
3. Unscrew the drain plug with a socket wrench. The drain plug requires a 13mm socket. Allow all the oil to drain from the oil pan (allow at least 10 minutes for all the oil to drain adequately). Tighten the drain plug to the oil pan with the socket wrench.
4. Open the hood to access the engine compartment. Locate the oil filter cap at the front of the engine. It will be positioned directly in front of the oil-fill cap.
5. Loosen the oil filter with an oil filter wrench. Pull the oil filter out by the cap. Ensure you have a pan to catch the excess oil dripping from the filter. Pull the old filter off the end of the stick, using an old rag--this will prevent from making a mess.
6. Insert a new filter onto the stick, pushing it in until it stops. Insert the filter/cap back into the oil filter housing. Screw the cap tight by hand.
7. Unscrew the oil cap located directly behind the oil filter housing. Pour in seven quarts of engine oil. Pull out the engine oil dipstick located by the oil-fill cap. Wipe the dipstick clean. Insert the dipstick back in to the tube. Pull out and verify the level. The level should be between the minimum and the maximum marks on the dipstick. If the level is below either of the marks, add additional oil in half-quart intervals. Check the level each time you pour the oil.
8. Start the car up and allow it to idle for five minutes. Turn the car off and let it sit for an additional five minutes. Check the oil level once more. Add more oil, if necessary.
9. Log the number of miles driven and the date the oil change was completed. Reference this for the next oil change interval.

1. Open the engine hood of the Audi A4 by pulling the hood-release lever located underneath the steering panel of the car on the driver side. Push the hood up all the way until it locks into place.
2. Locate the coolant tank on the driver-side of the vehicle, just in front of the wheel well. The tank is clear and has a blue screw top. Place a drain pan below the coolant tank underneath the car. This pan will catch the coolant that falls from the tank when its being removed.
3. Remove the three bolts surrounding the coolant tank with the 10 mm socket wrench.
4. Detach the three hoses that run from the radiator to the coolant tank with a clamp removal tool. Wait for the coolant to drain completely into the pan below.
5. Lift the tank out of the engine cavity. Replace it with the new tank. Reattach the hoses with the clamps and fasten the tank with the bolts. Remove the cap and pour in coolant until it reaches the MAX line. Close the hood.

1. Remove the plastic cap that conceals the screw that holds the housing to the door panel. Use a flat head screwdriver to pry the cap off.
2. Remove the screw that holds the door handle housing to the door panel with a screwdriver. The housing should now come loose.
3. Pull the housing gently away from the door panel. The door handle will still be connected to the release cable, so only pull it as far as the cable will allow you to.
4. Disconnect the door release cable with a pair of long needle nose pliers. The cable is fastened with a hook that needs to be wiggled and pulled off of the large metal hook on the door handle. You should now be able to remove the door handle and housing from the door panel and set it aside.
5. Install the new assembly by hooking the door release cable over the hook on the new door handle assembly. It will help to turn the housing 180-degrees (upside down) and hook the cable on. Once the cable is hooked on, turn the assembly back around, being careful not to scratch the leather.
6. Place the housing partially back in the door panel. Place the cable in the guide groove of the housing. This cable must be installed in the groove in order for the door to open. Push the door handle into place in the door panel.
7. Reinstall the screw that holds the door handle housing to the door panel. Reinstall the plastic cover that conceals the screw. Test the door handle to ensure that it is working correctly.

1. Drive the vehicle onto the ramps and engage the emergency brake.
2. Slide the oil bucket beneath the vehicle at the oil plug location. BMW uses a skid plate with an easy access cover for the oil drain plug. Place the oil bucket beneath this access panel.
3. Open the access panel (in the center of the skid plate and labeled). Remove the oil plug using the 17 mm wrench. Allow the oil to drain until you have only a few drops dripping out. Replace the oil plug and tighten to between 20 and 25 foot-pounds of torque using a torque wrench. Leave the access panel open.
4. Remove oil filter housing cap using a filter strap wrench or by hand. You can use an adjustable wrench if desired. The cap is located center-front of the engine compartment, directly in front of the fan, accessed from above the engine. Pull the cap and filter out. The filter removes with the cap.
5. Replace the filter by sliding the old one off of the tube attached to the cap and sliding the new one onto the tube. Inspect the rubber grommets at the base of the tube and above the threads on the cap. Replace with the rubber grommets included with the new filter if you notice signs of looseness or damage. Reinstall the cap by hand and tighten one-quarter further with a strap or adjustable wrench.
6. Remove the oil fill cap. Pour 6.9 quarts of synthetic 5W-30 motor oil into the oil fill tube (labeled on top of the engine). Replace the oil fill cap and start the vehicle. Allow the motor to run for 2 minutes. Monitor the access panel beneath the vehicle and the oil filter cap for signs of leaks. Leaks would imply a damaged gasket or improper tightening. Correct the error and retest.
7. Close the access panel for the oil drain plug. Check the oil level with the engine oil dipstick. Fill as necessary.

1. Ply the small rectangular door off the back of the remote.
2. Remove the two screws underneath the rectangular door.
3. Pull the back cover off the remote.
4. Replace the old battery with a new one.
5. Reinstall the back cover, and reinstall the two screws that retain it.
6. Reinstall the small rectangular door on the back of the remote.