Auto Service

1.
Find the fog lamp in the front fender corner.
2.
To get to the lamp, you must first pop out the grille next to it. There are two pins that you must pull down with either your fingers or pliers. Remove the pins and put them in a safe place.
Pop out the grille by shaking gently back and forth.
3.
Now you can access the fog lamp. There are two bolts on the inside corners of the fog lamp; use a socket wrench or regular wrench to loosen and remove the bolts. Pull the inside corner out toward you.
4.
Take the fog lamp out of the fender until you see a connector with wires coming out of it. Disconnect the fog lamp at the connector and remove it completely from the car.
5.
Now take your new fog lamp out of the box. Examine it to see whether its broken. Connect the new fog lamps connector to the wire connector on your car.
6.
Push the fog lamp into the fender.
7.
Tighten the bolts with your socket wrench or regular wrench.
8. Now turn on the cars fog lamps to see whether they work. If they dont, look at the wire connection to see if its loose and at the fog lamp itself to make sure the bulb isnt broken.
9.
Replace the grille. Push the two pins back up into the car with your hands.
Youre all done.

Single-Caliper-Piston System
1. Unscrew the lid from the master cylinder reservoir and siphon out about half of the fluid from the master cylinder with a clean turkey baster. Transfer the siphoned fluid to a small, sealable container and seal the container.
2. Loosen the front wheel bolts with a ratchet and socket, and raise the front of the A4 with a floor jack. Position jack stands under the vehicle’s subframe and lower the A4 onto the jack stands. Remove the wheel bolts and remove the front wheels.
3. Pull the ends of the outer brake pad retainer – the metal spring spanning the rear of the outer brake pad – from the holes in the caliper with needle-nose pliers. Pull the outer brake pad retainer from the caliper and outer brake pad.
4. Pry the rubber caps from the brake caliper guide pins with a small flat-head screwdriver. Loose the caliper guide pins with a ratchet and hex-bit socket, and pull the caliper guide pins from the caliper.
5. Pull the caliper up and off the caliper bracket, and suspend it from the coil spring with a bungee cord. Do not allow the caliper to hang by its rubber hose. Pull the old brake pads off the caliper bracket.
6. Remove the two caliper bracket bolts with a ratchet and socket, and pull the caliper bracket off the front hub.
7. Disengage the rotor retaining screw with a Phillips screwdriver. If the screw will not turn easily, lightly tap the head of it with a hammer to free it. Pull the rotor from the front hub. If the rotor is stuck, lightly tap the rear of it with a rubber mallet to free it.
8. Inspect the front and rear of the rotor for any visual defects, including: deep grooves, signs of grinding, hot spots or mirror-like shine. Replace the rotor with a new one if any defects exist.
9. Set the rotor on the front hub, lining up the screw hole on the rotor with that on the front hub. Tighten the rotor-retaining screw with a Phillips screwdriver.
10. Install the caliper bracket on the front hub and hand-tighten it retaining bolts. Tighten the caliper bracket bolts to 92 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and socket.
11. Set the old inner brake pad in the caliper, so it contacts the caliper piston. Position an 8-inch C-clamp over the caliper, so the fixed part touches the rear of the caliper and the screw part touches the brake pad. Tighten the C-clamp to press the caliper piston into the caliper. Once the C-clamp stops moving, loosen it and remove it and the brake pad.
12. Install new brake pads into the caliper bracket, position the inner brake so the arrow engraved on it points downward.
13. Clean the caliper guide pins with a clean, lint-free cloth and apply a thin coat of new disc brake grease to the smooth part of the caliper guide pin. Insert the guide pins into the caliper and hand-tighten them. Torque the caliper guide pins to 11 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and hex-bit socket.
14. Insert the straight ends of a new outer brake pad retainer – included with the new brake pads – into the small holes on the outside of the caliper. Press the outer brake pad retainer toward the brake pad until it seats in the grooves in the caliper. Press the rubber covers back into place over the caliper guide pins.
15. Repeat Steps 3 through 14 to replace the brakes on the other side of the A4.
16. Reinstall the front wheels on the A4’s hubs and hand-tighten the wheel bolts. Raise the Audi off the jack stands with a floor jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the lug nuts, in a crisscross pattern, to 89 foot-pounds.
17. Press and release the brake pedal until it feels firm, then check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. Add DOT 4 brake fluid to the master cylinder reservoir until the level reaches the “Max” line.
18. Take the old brake fluid in the sealed container to a used-automotive-fluid-recycling center for disposal. Many auto parts stores take old brake fluid free of charge.
Dual-Caliper-Piston System
19. Follow Steps 1 and 2 in the section titled “Single Piston Brake Removal” to remove excess brake fluid, raise the A4 and remove its wheels.
20. Remove the two Torx bolts securing the outer brake pads with a ratchet and Torx-bit socket. Pull the two outer brake pads from the caliper through the hole above each brake pad.
21. Press and hold the button on the brake pad wear sensor wiring harness, and unplug the harness from the A4’s harness. Press the caliper toward the inside of the A4 until it stops moving.
22. Insert a flat-head screwdriver between the topmost brake pad and the caliper carrier’s body, and pry the brake pad toward the rotor to disengage the pad’s retaining clips. Pull the pad from the caliper, through the hole directly above the brake pad. Repeat this step to remove the lower, inside brake pad.
23. Unfasten the caliper carrier retaining bolts with a ratchet and Torx-bit socket. Pull the caliper carrier assembly off the front hub and hang it from the strut spring with a bungee cord. Never allow the caliper to hang by its rubber hose, as this can cause severe damage.
24. Remove, inspect and reinstall the front rotor by following Steps 7 through 9 in the section titled “Single Piston Brake Removal.”
25. Set the caliper carrier back into place on the front hub and hand-tighten the caliper carrier retaining bolts. Torque the caliper carrier retaining bolts to 148 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and Torx-bit socket.
26. Slide the upper inner brake pad into the upper inside hole in the caliper carrier. Line up the fingers on the rear of the brake pad with the caliper piston and press the pad toward the piston until the fingers insert fully into the caliper piston – use extreme care not to puncture the dust boot around the piston. Repeat this step on the lower inner brake pad.
27. Plug the brake pad wear sensor into the A4’s wiring harness.
28. Press the caliper carrier outward until it stops moving. Slide the upper outer brake pad into the caliper carrier and hand tighten its retaining bolt. Slide the lower outer brake pad into the caliper and hand-tighten its retaining bolt. Torque the brake pad retaining bolts to 18 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and Torx-bit socket.
29. Repeat Steps 2 through 10 to replace the brakes on the other side of the A4.
30. Reinstall the front wheels, pressurize the brake system and refill the brake master cylinder by following Steps 16 through 18 in the section titled “Single Piston Brake Removal.”

1. Use a jack to raise the car up. Place two jacks on the front and two on the back. Ensure the car is stabilized by using jack stands with the jack support points.
2. Lubricate both the bolts and clamps so they will be easier to remove. Loosen the bolts with an adjustable wrench, since bolt sizes vary. Remove the bolts and put them somewhere safe.
3. Remove the heat shield and clamps. Shake the catalytic converter slightly and pull it from the pipes. In some occurrences, you may need to use a rubber mallet and tap on the converter to release it.
4. Check the connecting pipes for damage. If you see damage, you might need to replace the pipes, while a small crack or puncture can be replaced with an exhaust patch kit you can purchase at an automotive store.
5. Attach the new converter to the exhaust pipe that comes from the front of the vehicle. You may need to use the rubber mallet to ensure that the converter is securely fastened. Align the exhaust pipe from the vehicles rear with the catalytic converters back hole. It may require pushing the pipe back to get it fixed. When it is properly aligned, push the pipe one inch into the converter.
6. Put the heat plate back on, if you removed one, then replace and secure the bolts. Come out from under the car then start the engine. See if the new converter is leaking. Most leaks occur where the exhaust pipes meet the converter. Should you see a leak, you will need to use the automotive exhaust patch kit to patch it up.
7. Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle. Write the date of the replacement in your auto maintenance manual. Some states, like California, require this information with auto inspections.
8. Check to see your states requirements for disposing of catalytic converters. Some states require you to take it to an approved location for disposal. You can find this by contacting a local auto store or mechanic.

1. Replace your smart key by contacting your vehicle dealership. Smart keys are used by many auto makers and you must call your specific auto maker to obtain a new smart key.
2. Contact a local towing company to tow your vehicle to the car dealership. Since smart keys must be programmed to match your cars computer chips, you must tow your vehicle to the dealership.
3. Provide the car dealership your vehicle identification number (VIN), which is found on all of your purchase paperwork, insurance paperwork and title and registration. It is also found on your engine, in the driver door panel and inside the bottom-left side of your windshield.
4. Pay for your new smart key once the dealer has finished programming and creating your new smart key. The cost for replacement smart keys vary based on the make of your vehicle, but the average cost is around $200.

1. Jack up on the front of your Audi A4 under the front jack point behind the radiator, using the floor jack.
2. Place jack stands under the front pinch welds of the vehicle and lower the Audi onto the stands.
3. Climb under the vehicle and disconnect the electrical connector from the oxygen sensor.
4. Unbolt the oxygen sensor from the exhaust using an O2 sensor socket and socket wrench.
5. Remove the sensor and thread the new sensor into the exhaust. Tighten the sensor using a socket wrench and O2 sensor socket.
6. Reconnect the electrical leads to the sensor.
7. Lower the A4 to the ground using the floor jack.

1. Open the hood and unplug the electrical connector running to the back of the headlight bulb that has burned out.
2. Pull off the dust cover from the back of the headlight housing with your fingers.
3. Rotate the headlight counterclockwise and pull it out of the back of the headlight housing.
4. Align the tabs on the replacement 9006 or 9005 headlight with the notches in the headlight housing. Twist the headlight, holding the headlight by the plastic collar, to lock the headlight into the housing.
5. Replace the dust cover and reconnect the headlight connector.

1. Jack the car up until the stock spring is compressed and install the coil spring compressor by sliding the hooked section of the tool onto the top and bottom part of the spring, effectively holding the compressed spring in place. Remove the lug nuts and pull the wheel off of the wheel studs. Use the socket set to remove the nut from the top of the strut tower, which is the cylindrical rod extending up through the coil spring itself.
2. Use the ball joint tool to remove the ball joint and control arm from the lower strut and pull the strut tower out from the engine compartment. Slide the spring off of the strut tower.
3. Install the new coil spring on the strut tower and slide the tower back into place in the engine compartment. Tighten down the bolt on top of the tower and remount the ball joint. Mount the wheel and lower the car.